Ch'ing Dynasty
In 1644, the nomadic Manchu (man-CHEW) warriors from northern China overthrew China's Ming rulers and established the Ch'ing
dynasty. The Manchu admired and quickly adopted the culture and government of the native Chinese they had conquered. Still, in their
official clothing styles, the Manchu emphasized their own distinctive cultural heritage. Inspired by the riding garments of their
nomadic days, Ch'ing robes had long tapered sleeves, tight cuffs, narrow neck openings, side closures, and slit skirts. Although the
cut was new, Ch'ing robes were decorated with symbols from traditional Chinese mythology, most notably the dragon.
Everyone who attended and served at court during the Ch'ing dynasty wore symbolic robes. Rank and status within the court were indicated
by the cut, color, and symbolic decoration of one's robe. The highest rank was that of emperor, empress, or empress dowager. Only
these individuals were allowed to wear yellow robes bearing the five-toed dragon
MOTIF (moe-TEEF).3
Dragon Robe
This type of semiformal court robe is called ch'i-fu (chee-foo), which translates as "festive dress." The color and cut
indicate that this robe was worn by an empress.
|
Rollover the image to locate details from the Dragon Robe for an Empress of China |
Description
The dragon on this robe (see detail) is a distinctive type associated with the imperial house. Its wide, flat head is topped by horns and
flanked by wiry whiskers. Scales and sharp spines cover its curving body. Five short legs with powerful claws emerge from the dragon's
snakelike torso. Flames spark outward from its joints. The dragon tosses a flaming pearl between its claws.
The dragon cavorts in a celestial landscape above a rainbow-hued diagonal ocean whose frothy waves crash against three rocky mountains that
represent the earth.
The heavens are represented by a band of colorful
STYLIZED,
stringy clouds that curl on top of the waves and float up in little ovals through the robe.
Symbols
The dragon is the centerpiece of an elaborate set of images that symbolize the emperor's authority as an intermediary in the universal order
between heaven and earth. The great and beneficial power of the dragon could be brought to the people by the good governance of the
emperor. The pearl within the dragon's grasp is a symbol of wisdom. Like a worthy emperor, the dragon always seeks wisdom.
|
|
|
Detail of pearl in dragon's grasp from the Dragon Robe for an Empress of China |
|
Detail of swastikas from the Dragon Robe for an Empress of China |
Many symbols of good luck and power surround the dragon. The whole
BACKGROUND is embroidered with an intricate
PATTERN
of connected bright blue swastikas. In China the swastika symbolized good luck and the number 10,000. Thus any symbol of blessing laid against it is
multiplied 10,000 times.
Several red bats fly through the heavens below the dragon. Bats were considered emblems of longevity and happiness because the words for
happiness and bat sound similar. To either side of the dragon's head are red stylized shou (show) characters. They wish long life for
the robe's wearer.
|
|
|
Detail of one red bat from the Dragon Robe for an Empress of China |
|
Detail of one red shou character from the Dragon Robe for an Empress of China |
1 The emperor Yao was said to be the son of a red dragon. The dragon had come to his mother bearing an inscription on his back
indicating that she would receive Heaven's blessing. A great darkness and wind whipped around her on all sides. The dragon touched
her and she became pregnant. Fourteen months later she gave birth to Yao.
2 According to one myth, during the time of great rebellion, the T'ang emperor Ming Huang had to flee from the capital. The
previous evening a small dragon arose from a pond ready to help the emporer escape by boat. The dragon carried the emperor's boat
on its back to safety. Ming Huang was very grateful. He thanked it and gave wine.
3 If these robes at first seem to us very ornate, we must remember that they are robes of state, worn in the imperial court and its
temples and theatres. They can be compared to the robes worn for a royal coronation in Westminster Abbey.
|